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My wooden garden shed, although kept protected by staining three times a year has gone mouldy inside?

The mould has been caused by the horrible UK wet weather and seems to be just on the wood around the inside bottom edge of the shed where the wood has gone black. I’ve always had a heater in there on the frost free setting and the roof’s been re-felted, so no water can get in but the rain seems to soak through around the bottom edge and two corners and I’m not sure how to get rid of the problem.

I want to convert the shed to a kind of retreat and make it nice in there but what do I do about the damp and mould? Someone told me to re-line the inside but that’s not curing the problem.

The wood is tongue and groove.

Any good ideas?

This would be causd by two things –

#1 Modern wood "preservatives"
#2 rising damp

The best thing for you to do is to buy some 3×2 timber – at least 3 shed lengths (or 5 – dependent on how your base is constructed)

Treat this wood with TRADITIONAL CREOSOTE.

Creosote has been removed from stores – because they say it is dangerous stuff. The truth is – it works – for over 25 years! What they have replaced it with are products that only last 2 years maximum – and contain cyanide!
I have actually seen snails eat this "preservative" with no ill effect.

Treat these new supports – and let them dry undercover – for about a week.
Then empty your shed, and use levers to lift it enough to slide in the new waterproof supports. Make sure these are at right-angles to the supports already used.

This will also increase ventillation underneath.

Use a clear (or stained) wood preservative inside by a good named brand on the floor and 4" up all round. Make sure it is oil based (look to see how to clean brushes on the tin – use wite spirit is the right type)
When this is dry, you can add any form of floor insulation you like – rubber mat, old carpet, or insulation board , or a combination of several of these.
Just check over yearly to make sure it’s not going mouldy.
Adding guttering will also help keep the base dry, as will having gravel underneath to stop splashing.

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  • services sprite My wooden garden shed, although kept protected by staining three times a year has gone mouldy inside?
  • services sprite My wooden garden shed, although kept protected by staining three times a year has gone mouldy inside?
  • services sprite My wooden garden shed, although kept protected by staining three times a year has gone mouldy inside?
  • services sprite My wooden garden shed, although kept protected by staining three times a year has gone mouldy inside?
  • services sprite My wooden garden shed, although kept protected by staining three times a year has gone mouldy inside?
  • services sprite My wooden garden shed, although kept protected by staining three times a year has gone mouldy inside?
  • services sprite My wooden garden shed, although kept protected by staining three times a year has gone mouldy inside?
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Posted in Wooden Garden Sheds

7 Responses to “My wooden garden shed, although kept protected by staining three times a year has gone mouldy inside?”

  1. anto_mac_1001 says:
    October 31, 2009 at 9:49 pm

    The shed should be placed onto damp proofing membrane if not already.
    References :

  2. DMJ says:
    October 31, 2009 at 10:30 pm

    Is the ground the shed is on very wet.
    Can you with help lift the shed and place "damp course plastic strips" under the beams of the shed to the base.
    This would then stop damp rising.
    Alternately place a second layer of "Beams" under the shed with plastic strips.
    References :

  3. lotsbull says:
    October 31, 2009 at 11:06 pm

    sometimes when you stain only so many sides of wood , the open unprotected part of the wood shall retain moisture and that could be leading to mould and rotting .
    References :
    custom house painter for years

  4. Mr. P says:
    October 31, 2009 at 11:56 pm

    This would be causd by two things –

    #1 Modern wood "preservatives"
    #2 rising damp

    The best thing for you to do is to buy some 3×2 timber – at least 3 shed lengths (or 5 – dependent on how your base is constructed)

    Treat this wood with TRADITIONAL CREOSOTE.

    Creosote has been removed from stores – because they say it is dangerous stuff. The truth is – it works – for over 25 years! What they have replaced it with are products that only last 2 years maximum – and contain cyanide!
    I have actually seen snails eat this "preservative" with no ill effect.

    Treat these new supports – and let them dry undercover – for about a week.
    Then empty your shed, and use levers to lift it enough to slide in the new waterproof supports. Make sure these are at right-angles to the supports already used.

    This will also increase ventillation underneath.

    Use a clear (or stained) wood preservative inside by a good named brand on the floor and 4" up all round. Make sure it is oil based (look to see how to clean brushes on the tin – use wite spirit is the right type)
    When this is dry, you can add any form of floor insulation you like – rubber mat, old carpet, or insulation board , or a combination of several of these.
    Just check over yearly to make sure it’s not going mouldy.
    Adding guttering will also help keep the base dry, as will having gravel underneath to stop splashing.
    References :

  5. chippy78@rocketmail.com says:
    November 1, 2009 at 12:12 am

    im fixing a shed with the same problem except im in aus. what i had to do is lift up the shed up and lay brickwork underneath the frame and put a water barrier on the top of the brick work then place the shed back on top the water barrier which stops the timber drawing up the moisture from underneath ie stopping any moisture rot or in your case rot and mould.
    you should have a carpenter take on the job it is dangerous proping up any kind of structure.
    References :

  6. Hondu says:
    November 1, 2009 at 12:38 am

    Two things. You should get the shed off the ground so air can circulate under it and the moisture in the ground can’t penetrate the wood. And, even with a heater inside you should provide some ventilation so the water vapor can escape the interior. Once water is inside, even if it is just from condensation, and even if you heat it, the water vapor has to get out. Water doesn’t go away when it "drys", it just changes form.
    References :

  7. Si S says:
    November 1, 2009 at 12:49 am

    have you stained the inside of it?
    References :

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